Review: a Tale of Two Thoughtful Italian Restaurants

Chef Vittorio Ettore. Courtesy photo.

A Tavola, in Winchester, and Bistro 5, in Medford, belong to the same chef/owner, Vittorio Ettore. Both are a stone’s throw from Arlington borders, and both serve some delicious fare of Italian inspiration.

Chef Ettore is a big proponent of farm-to-table dining and even runs an educational program for elementary school kids called Seed to Plate that emphasizes the connection between what we eat and where it comes from.

This is the stuff of concern to me in the last couple of years, because I developed some (temporary, I hope) food intolerances that were making me pretty sick. Migraines, rashes, and gastrointestinal distress are just some of the things that drew me to discover my ailment. And as you can imagine, they’d have to be pretty bad to get me off croissants and cheese.

So I am now a reader of labels and a shopper of food that isn’t so much messed with. I have discovered that a conventional egg will set off my symptoms, and one from the farm up the street doesn’t. This also means that, in a restaurant with a chef that is doing some pretty cool stuff, I meet the server’s introduction with an apology: “I’m going to say I’m sorry, right off the bat, that I’m one of those high-maintenance diners. I am currently unable, by doc’s orders, to have dairy or wheat or refined sugar.”

Most often, I cobble together something from a combination of salads and proteins. I gave up on sauces altogether or any sort of dessert long ago, and rely on my beloved partner to be my taster in this realm. But in this kind of place I want to taste what the chef de cuisine is putting out, so I make my confession up front and put myself in the capable hands of our server.

At Bistro 5, our waiter was not only sympathetic; he was very well versed in the menu down to ingredients and preparation. And he was nice. No cobbling was necessary. I indulged in dishes with complex sauces (no, the ramp pesto does not have parmesan cheese) and interesting flavor profiles with nary a symptom in sight. Not only that, but Tony thoughtfully sent me a plate of Mary’s Gone Crackers, a wheat-free, seeded cracker that I recognized immediately and was ever so grateful for during my typical bread-basket-envy portion of the meal. These thoughtful touches are the earmark of these restaurants.

At A Tavola (emphasis on the “Tav” in the Italian pronunciation), we had a tomato sauce with such an extraordinarily bright flavor that this tomato snob had to ask our waitress about it. She said it was made with the heirloom tomatoes from the kitchen garden that they had canned themselves last fall. If you think that locally sourced, impeccable ingredients couldn’t make that much of a difference, a dish like this will change your mind fast.

Helping you decide

So by now I’m hoping you are trying to decide between the two destinations. A Tavola is cozy and has a slightly more casual feel. Tables are close together, and small plates are the way to start your meal. Having just returned from Spain, my family is big into the tapas style — order several small plates for the table and sort of graze leisurely on them, ordering more if need be. A Tavola offers piattini of perfectly simple yet exquisite meats, olives and more that say you are in a place where the ingredient is king. Bring friends, order a bottle of wine that they recommend and pretend you’re in a taverna in the old country.

Bistro 5 is a little more upscale in its vibe, and dishes are considerably more involved. In fact, that may be my only criticism; some dishes had three or four flavors going on at once, and it became a little too much of a project to find the right balance in a bite. But that’s being nitpicky. What I really mean to say is that they needn’t try so hard. They had me at duck prosciutto, and the accompanying foie brûlée was almost too much.

But Bistro 5 impresses, from the specialty drinks, with eyedroppers full of house-made elixirs, to the warm and friendly staff. It’s a great first-date kind of spot.

I will mention that both restaurants are rather out of my price range for a weekly date night, but if you want to really treat the foodie in your life to a special occasion, these are some very good options. Do make a reservation at either because both places were packed, even with diners at the bar, on the nights we visited.

A Tavola

34 Church St., Winchester Center
781-729-1040
Serving dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.

Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

Pricing: $$$$ (on scale of 1 to 4 dollar signs)

Bistro 5

5 Playstead Road, in West Medford
781-395-7464
Open Tuesday through Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.

Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

Pricing: $$$$ (on scale of 1 to 4 dollar signs)

– Lori Uhland for YourArlington.com. When she’s not comparing pricy places, Lori Uhland of Arlington styles homes and events at www.stagerightlori.com. She specializes in big-bang-for-your-buck functional design and loves all things delicious.