Review: All-purpose Menotomy Grill Hardly Ever Disappoints
– Lori Uhland for YourArlington.com
It seems like Arlington families have been longing for a family-style pub forever. When we start hibernating and hiding from the bitter winter chill, a pub can be the touchstone for the community.
I recall the early days of the Arlington Email List when someone pined for the type of pub they have in Ireland. A downtown eatery where you can bring the kids, enjoy a home-style meal, a frothy pint and someone may pick up a fiddle in the corner for an old-fashioned singalong. The idea seemed really appealing to me: a warm, cozy gathering spot where you can catch up with friends and let somebody else do the dishes.
So when the Menotomy Grill & Tavern opened its doors in June 2013, we brought the kid, met up with some friends and our new regular weeknight spot was born.
I haven’t reviewed Menotomy Grill before, because frankly it seemed a little nepotistic. No, I have no stake in their success, but I guess I’ve come to feel like it’s our place. I’ve had business meetings there, met a girlfriend on the verge of a break-up, celebrated birthdays, toasted family friends’ successes and more.
Exception to the rule
I think it’s hard for a restaurant to be all things to all people; in fact, I’d normally say it’s inadvisable, because, as the saying goes, if you try to please everyone, you end up pleasing no one. But Menotomy Grill seems to me the exception to the rule.
Last year, my husband and I wanted to revel in the World Cup frenzy with a crowd. We called Menotomy to find they were opening early that night for the occasion. When we got there, the bar was already three deep watching the big screens, and we tucked into a booth with a great view over their heads. Seated near us were a table of four elderly folk, a young couple with their two kids, some folks in uniform and well you see where this is going — our whole community gravitated toward this hub to cheer on our national soccer team. And even though we lost that game, I got what I came for, the camaraderie of my peers, who all felt like friends that evening.
On another visit, I asked whether the mussels could possibly be steamed in wine instead of the local beer, as printed on the menu. Our delightful server, without missing a beat, asked if I was gluten-free. “You know our owner is celiac, so we’re very conscious of keeping lots of options on the menu,” she said.
Server listens to diner
Then she proceeded to go through the entire list of gluten-free items and those that could be prepared that way if I wanted. Wow. If I didn’t feel a kinship before, I really was at home now. If you’ve read this column before, you know I’m fairly adept at navigating a menu around my food intolerances, but it’s always nice to have someone who is sincerely empathetic to help.
So the Menotomy Grill has become a haven for my family and me. We’ve never had a disappointing meal there.
On one occasion, out of about 15 times that I’ve ordered the seared-salmon dish that is my go-to, my fish was slightly less done than I prefer. Though I was still enjoying it, our server sensed some hesitation and noticed the rare color on my plate. Assuring me it would only take a moment, he whisked it away and replaced it with a perfectly medium-rare prepared salmon steak. No fuss, no guilt, no problem — smiles all around.
Even the children’s menu here is pleasing to parents as well as the young ones. Such options as chicken Caesar salad and St Louis ribs are among the typical kiddo burger-and- grilled-cheese fare.
And that impromptu fiddler in my family-pub dream? Well, there’s live music on Thursday nights.
A place to date
Recently, my husband and I had a date night there. I wore my red dress, and we sat near the glow of the fireplace. Suddenly, our family place became a romantic hot spot. He ordered a coffee stout, and I asked for the bartender to pick a good sipping tequila. Both were sublime and perfect to take the chill off the winter night.
Then when our server listed the specials, we decided to forgo our usuals and try something new. My date wanted to try the special appetizer of jerk pork tacos with charred pineapple mango chili salsa, so I started off with a side of roasted brussels sprouts with bacon and mustard seed from the regular menu. The tacos had just the right amount of smoky slow burn. The caramelized edges of my little sprouts flecked with crispy-chewy lardons of pork would change anyone’s mind about brussels sprouts being a second-class veggie.
We’ve tried the flat-bread pizza here several times, so he took a chance on the white clam special pizza. It was a perfect blend of garlic, béchamel, clams and cheese, which sounds less than appetizing as I write, but you’re going to have to trust me that the combination was both briny and rich and hit all the right notes. I went for the wine-braised short rib with mashed red bliss potatoes but substituted fries for the presumably dairy-laden mashed. We agreed that the utterly tender beef in its multidimensional sauce might have been a $40 dish at a fine-dining, white-tablecloth place, but here we were at our regular neighborhood joint.
So whether it’s your sports pub, family-friendly tavern, sparkling-date destination, or just a central community gathering location, Menotomy Grill & Tavern fits the bill. The menu is reliable and approachable, but the nightly specials keep flaming the embers. The staff is expert, attentive and genuinely friendly. The décor is comfortable and rustically chic.
I’ve gone there in denim and Wellingtons or heels and pearls and felt the same warm welcome of the heart of a neighborhood either way. I think this place has it finger on the pulse of Arlington with its diverse and eclectic mix of folks that honor our history and celebrate our progress. It may be my place, but I’m glad to share.
Menotomy Grill & Tavern, 25 Mass. Ave., Arlington, 781-648-1775
Hours:
Monday, Tuesday: 4:30 p.m. to midnight
Wednesday through Friday: noon to midnight
Saturday, Sunday: 11 a.m. to midnight
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars
Pricing: $$ (on scale of 1 to 4 dollar signs)